Guidebook for Johannesburg

As you’d expect from a city this size, there’s a lot to do – starting with retail therapy. Other than Melville’s 27 Boxes, a bunch of shipping containers filled with shops and restaurants, the northern suburbs are mostly home to opulent, anonymous malls. Downtown is much more inspiring, with Maboneng’s Market on Main – a Sunday staple for arts, crafts and street food – and Collector’s Treasury – a labyrinthine, longstanding bookshop – among the best spots. To get to grips with Johannesburg, try one of the excellent tours on offer. On Mainstreetwalks’ Maboneng Precinct tour, for instance, you’ll discover the best of this exciting district’s community-led regeneration. To find out more about the stunning graffiti you’ll spot on your walk, book onto one of Past Experiences’ street art tours. And to learn about Soweto, try Lebo’s tuk-tuk tours. The entertaining, knowledgeable local guides will show you both the township’s struggles and its hopes for the future. The city’s museums include MOAD, the continent’s first museum dedicated to design, and Newtown’s cavernous MuseuMAfricA, with thoughtful exhibits on Johannesburg’s art and history. Further from the centre, the Apartheid Museum is a nuanced exploration of the history and legacy of racial segregation in South Africa, which is also the focus at the Mandela House Museum and Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum in Soweto. Start your Friday or Saturday night in Fordsburg, the historic Indian district, and hit up the night market around Mint Street. Arrive hungry, as you won’t be able to resist just one samosa, a tiny bite of uttappam, a couple of jalebi… If you’re still (somehow) hungry, head next to Maboneng for memorable African-Asian fusion at Blackanese, a generous Argentine grill at Che, or Ethiopian cuisine at Little Addis Cafe. After dinner join the young, mixed crowd at Living Room for a sundowner with a view. Continue your night by exploring Joburg’s thriving jazz scene – Braamfontein institution The Orbit is known as South Africa’s best jazz bar, with Sophiatown’s Afrikan Freedom Station another historic venue. A more recent addition is the Marabi Club, which pays homage to the early 20th-century marabi music scene; the classic cocktails and waistcoated waiters set the vintage vibe.